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Ama Dablam Expedition

 

Ama Dablam Expedition

Ama Dablam is known as one of the most impressive mountains in the world, not for its altitude, but for its beauty, aesthetics and the pure exposure encountered high on its flanks. Most parties attempt the SW ridge, climbing expedition style, fixing ropes, ferrying loads, and acclimatizing slowly. The mountain has gained in popularity over the past 8 years. It's common to encounter high altitude Everest veterans having problems with the technical difficulties encountered on the crux pitches of this climb.

Ama Dablam is a beautiful mountain, located almost due south of Everest and Lhotse in the Khumbu region. It stands among many 22,000 to 24,000 foot peaks that surround the high valleys of this region, yet stands out by way of its classic beauty: It is a steep pyramid of ice with vertical walls and sharp, exposed ridges. Ama Dablam forms a lasting impression on many trekkers in Nepal, as it is perhaps the most stunning mountain along the popular trekking route to Everest Base Camp. The climb feels like a 5.8 - 5.9 depending on conditions but it's really hard to say because I have always worn plastic boots, and all the climbing is above 6000m. I would have to recommend allowing 5 weeks for this expedition, taking into consideration bad weather, sickness, and multiple summit attempts.

Information about how the peak gets its name Mother and her Necklace, Mother’s Charm Box, Mother's Jewel Box "Ama" means mother, grandmother or even world. "Dablam" means charm box, and is a special pendant worn by elder Sherpa women that holds precious items. The mountain has a hanging glacier that resembles a Dablam and the two extending ridges are outstretched like a maternal embrace."

Itinerary A:

Day 01 Arrive in Kathmandu. O/N in hotel.
Day 02 Kathmandu. O/N in hotel.
Day 03 Fly to KTM / LUKLA then start the trek to Phakding. Camp or lodge.
Day 04 Trek to Namchee Bazzar. O/N in camp or lodge.
Day 05 Rest day. O/N in camp or lodge.
Day 06 Trek to Tengbuche. O/N in camp or lodge.
Day 07 Trek to Pheriche. O/N in camp or lodge.
Day 08 Trek to Lobuche. O/N in camp or lodge.
Day 09 Trek to Kala Pattar then back to Lobuch. O/N in camp or lodge.
Day 10 Trek to Dingbuche. O/N in camp or lodge.
Day 11 Trek to Ama Dablam Base Camp. O/N in camp.
Day 12-24 Acclimatization & Climbing Period. O/N in camp.
Day 25 Base Camp to Tengbuche. O/N in camp or lodge.
Day 26 Trek to Namche Bazaar. O/N in camp or lodge.
Day 27 Trek to Lukla. O/N camp or lodge.
Day 28 Fly from LUKLA / KTM. O/N in hotel.
Day 29-30 Kathmandu. O/N in hotel.
Day 31 Transfer to airport for onward destination.

Itinerary B

Day 01 Arrive in Kathmandu. O/N in hotel.
Day 02 Kathmandu. O/N in hotel.
Day 03 Fly to KTM / LUKLA then start the trek to Phakding. Camp or lodge.
Day 04 Trek to Namchee Bazzar. O/N in camp or lodge.
Day 05 Rest day. O/N in camp or lodge.
Day 06 Trek to Tengbuche. O/N in camp or lodge.
Day 07 Trek to Dingbuche. O/N in camp. or lodge.
Day 08 Trek to Chukhung. O/N in camp or lodge.
Day 09 Trek to Island Peak BC. O/N in camp.
Day 10 Climb to Island Peak (6,089m.)- BC. O/N in camp.
Day 11 Trek to Chukhung. O/N in camp or lodge.
Day 12 Trek to Ama Dablam Base Camp. O/N in camp.
Day 13-24 Acclimatization & Climbing Period. O/N in camp.
Day 25 Base Camp to Tengbuche. O/N in camp or lodge.
Day 26 Trek to Namche Bazaar. O/N in camp or lodge.
Day 27 Trek to Lukla. O/N camp or lodge.
Day 28 Fly from LUKLA / KTM. O/N in hotel.
Day 29-30 Kathmandu. O/N in hotel.
Day 31 Transfer to airport for onward destination.

Cost includes:

  • 5 nights hotel accommodation in Kathmandu with B/B basis in 3 stars Category.
  • Flight Kathmandu –Lukla-Kathmandu with 50kg cargo per member.
  • Trekking from Lukla to BC and back with lodge trek or camping.
  • Food during the trekking & expedition up to BC for members & staffs.
  • Porter or Yak from Lukla to BC and back to Lukla.
  • Complete camping equipment for trekking and base camp
  • Expeditions permit visa and National park fees.
  • 1 Government Liaison Officer.
  • 1 Crews: Base camp guide, cook, kitchen boy and helper.
  • Above mention staffs and liaison officer's equipment allowance, daily wages, insurance and flight tickets.
  • All the ground transportation as per Itinerary.
  • Agency service Charge.
  • Last fare well dinner.

Cost does not include:

  • Lunch & dinner in Kathmandu.
  • High altitude climbing food, fuel, gas above base camp.
  • Expedition personal climbing gears.
  • Personal accident insurance and emergency evacuation, Helicopter rescue.
  • International departure taxes US$ 25
  • International airfare.
  • Expedition Cargo custom clearance.
  • Bar bills and beverages.
  • Personal Satellite phone with e-mail and Internet.
  • Walk Talkie permit.
  • Extra personal expenses.
  • Oxygen and Mask with regulator for climbing.

Tipping: It's appreciated and well practiced to tip the trekking and expedition's crew which includes guide, cook, kitchen staffs and porters as they also expect a generous tip though tipping is not compulsory.

The following Items are available in Kathmandu to Buy or Rent:

  • Fixed Ropes Korean quality – 8/9mm US$ 20 Cent per meter
  • Fixed Ropes European quality – 10/11mm US$ 2 per meter
  • Epi Gaz – 260 Gms US$ 5 each
  • High Cooking Stove US$ 22 each
  • Oxygen 4 liters bottle (Russian) US$ 425 each
  • Mask & Regulator US$ 350 each
  • Snow Bar US$ 2 each
  • Ice Crew US$ 8 each
  • Snow Shavel US$ 45 each
  • Mountain Shoes US$ 350 pair
  • Sunto Wash US$ 150 each
  • Satellite Phone on rent US$ 1000 each
  • Gammow Bag on rent US$ 350 each
  • Frerreno Tent on rent US$ 75 each
  • VE 25 North Face Tent on rent US$ 140 each

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