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Dhaulagiri Expedition


Dhaulagiri Expedition

The seventh highest mountain in the world, Dhaulagiri located in north central Nepal. Dhaulagiri (8,167m.) was first climbed by the Swiss in 1960. Its name is derived from Sanskrit "dhavala means" means "White" and girl is "Mountain" The Mountain was sighted by British surveyors in India in the early 1800s and was mapped by one of the secret Indian surveyors, the pundits, in 1873, but the region remained largely unknown until a Swiss aerial survey in 1949. Dhaulaghiri was climbed first in 1960 by an international team under the leadership of Max Eiselin, Lucerne. Since I happen to know some of the team members personally, my description concentrates mainly on this ascent. But in this Overview chapter, I try to inform about the present situation.

Dhaulagiri is Sanskrit and means White Mountain. It is located in the west central part of Nepal. On the altitude scale it is number 7 and it is almost the last 8000er to be conquered. The way of the first ascent is the normal route of today. There are however two main possibilities to reach the base camp. Both ways start from south at the small town of Beni (860m) which can by reached by bus from Pokhara and Kathmandu.

The eastern valley is called Kali Gandaki and was chosen by the French expedition in 1950. Today there is even an airport at Jomosom (2,700m) in this valley. On the west side of this valley is Dhaulagiri; on the east side is Annapurna. The alternative route is the Mayanghdi valley, which was discovered by a Swiss expedition one year later. Today there are commercial trekking tours that climb on one side, reach the base camp and come back through the opposite valley.


Day 01 Arrive in Kathmandu. O/N in hotel.
Day 02 Kathmandu. O/N in hotel.
Day 03 Kathmandu, Briefing. O/N in hotel.
Day 04 Drive to Beni. O/N at Camp or lodge.
Day 05 Trek to Tatopani. O/N in camp or lodge.
Day 06 Trek to Ghasa. O/N in camp or lodge.
Day 07 Trek to Tukuche. O/N in camp or lodge.
Day 08 Trek to Marpha. O/N in camp or lodge.
Day 09 Trek to Yak Kharka. O/N in camp.
Day 10 Trek to French Col. O/N in camp.
Day 11 Trek to Dhaulagiri Base camp. O/N in camp.
Day 12-44 Climbing Period of Mt Dhaulagiri. O/N in camp.
Day 45 Trek to Dhampus Pass. O/N in camp.
Day 46 Trek to Marpha. O/N in camp or lodge.
Day 47 Trek to Jomsom. O/N in camp or lodge.
Day 48 Flight Jomsom-KTM. O/N in hotel.
Day 49-50 Kathmandu. O/N in hotel.
Day 51 Transfer to airport for onward destination..

Cost includes:

  • 5 nights hotel accommodation in Kathmandu with B/B basis in 3 stars Category.
  • Transfer Kathmandu-Beni
  • Flight Jomsom-Pokhara-Kathmandu.
  • Trekking from Beni to BC and back to Jomsom with camping.
  • Food during the trekking & expedition up to BC for members & staffs.
  • Porters from Beni to BC and back to Jomsom.
  • Complete camping equipment for trekking and base camp
  • Expeditions permit and National park fees.
  • 1 Government Liaison Officer.
  • Crews: Base camp guide, cook, kitchen boy and helper.
  • Above mention staffs and liaison officer's equipment allowance, daily wages, insurance and flight tickets.
  • All the ground transportation as per Itinerary.
  • Agency service Charge.
  • Last fare well dinner.

Cost does not include:

  • Lunch & dinner in Kathmandu.
  • High altitude climbing food, fuel, gas above base camp.
  • Expedition personal climbing gears.
  • Personal accident insurance and emergency evacuation, Helicopter rescue.
  • International departure taxes US$ 25/-
  • International airfare.
  • Expedition Cargo custom clearance.
  • Bar bills and beverages.
  • Personal Satellite phone with e-mail and Internet.
  • Walk Talkie permit.
  • Extra personal expenses.
  • Oxygen and Mask with regulator for climbing.

Tipping: It's appreciated and well practiced to tip the trekking and expedition's crew which includes guide, cook, kitchen staffs and porters as they also expect a generous tip though tipping is not compulsory.

The following Items are available in Kathmandu to Buy or Rent:

  • Fixed Ropes Korean quality – 8/9mm US$ 20 Cent per meter
  • Fixed Ropes European quality – 10/11mm US$ 2 per meter
  • Epi Gaz – 260 Gms US$ 5 each
  • High Cooking Stove US$ 22 each
  • Oxygen 4 liters bottle (Russian) US$ 425 each
  • Mask & Regulator US$ 350 each
  • Snow Bar US$ 2 each
  • Ice Crew US$ 8 each
  • Snow Shavel US$ 45 each
  • Mountain Shoes US$ 350 pair
  • Sunto Wash US$ 150 each
  • Satellite Phone on rent US$ 1000 each
  • Gammow Bag on rent US$ 350 each
  • Frerreno Tent on rent US$ 75 each
  • VE 25 North Face Tent on rent US$ 140 each



Expedition in Nepal





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